Pet Care Tips

Lost and Found Tips

Cats and Wildlife Don't Mix (pdf version)

Protect Your Cat, Protect The Environment (pdf version)

Cat Enclosures

Introducing Cats and Kittens to a New Home (pdf version)

Multi-Cat Households (pdf version)

Cat Behavior Series: Scratching (pdf version)

Cat Behavior Series: The Shy Cat (pdf version)

In From the Wild -- from feral to pet (pdf version)


Cat Behavior Series: Scratching

Scratching is a normal behavior for cats. Cats scratch to exercise muscles and tendons in their lower legs and paws. It also assists in shucking off old nail husks. The primary function of scratching however, is communication. Cats scratch to mark their territory. Both the visible marks and the more subtle scents left behind are important signals to other cats about the feline who claims their territory in that area. While this is healthy and natural for cats in the wild, it is less than welcome when the territory being claimed is your antique sofa.

There are many strategies to help cats learn to channel their scratching instincts into less destructive areas. Providing appropriate scratching areas -- cat posts, cardboard scratchers, and sisal mats all are acceptable to cats. Keeping cat nails trimmed will lessen accidental damage during training. The judicious use of deterrents can improve training time and help cats learn the right places to scratch.

Many bad habits can be lessened by providing increased exercise. Providing play sessions with your cat, especially with prey-type toys, provides an outlet for much of the pent-up energy that these predators have. Most cats seem to prefer a few short play sessions over a marathon workout, and a variety of toys will keep your friend's interest peaked.

Some cats may mark their territory through scratching if they feel insecure about their place in the home. Providing a stress-free "snug retreat" can help the insecure cat feel safe. Helping spread the scent of the cat by rubbing a cloth on the cat's cheeks and then rubbing it on scratching areas will also make the cat feel more secure.

Scratching Posts -- The Basics

No matter what type of scratching post you choose for your cat, there are some basic considerations to optimize your cats willingness to use them.
  • Keep one more scratching post than you have cats. Once your scratching problem is under control, unused posts can be removed.
  • Each scratching post should be tall enough for your cat(s) to stretch up on their back feet to their full height without being able to reach over the top, which is about 3 feet high.
  • The scratching post should be steady. No self-respecting cat will entertain the thought of using a post that rocks or falls over.
  • Use the correct material. One of the essential functions of scratching is to leave a visible mark. Fabric that doesn't tear or fray will be of no use. Burlap is a favorite with many cats. Sisal rope, carpet, & cardboard are also good surfaces.
  • Choose an attractive location for your cat. Most people try to hide scratching posts from view. This completely negates the whole purpose of scratching for the cat. Position posts in obvious areas at first, preferably near scratching sites that your cat has selected for himself, then gradually repositioned to less obvious places later.
Scratching Deterrents

Several methods can be used to deter cats from scratching on furniture, but since scratching is a normal and necessary behavior in cats, deterrents should not be used unless appropriate scratching areas/ posts are provided.
  • Double stick tape applied to scratched areas.
  • Heavy plastic sheet covering furniture to change texture.
  • Chemical deterrents such as Cat-Away (TM) or aerosol moth repellant.
  • Nail covers such as Soft Paws (TM) are very useful during training periods.
Scratching Enticements
  • Coat the scratching post with catnip.
  • Rub a cloth on your cat's cheek and then onto the scratching post, or use a pheromone product such as Feliway (TM).
  • Reward your cat with play sessions and treats when they use the scratching post.
Clipping your cat's claws is an routine grooming task that your cat will learn to tolerate if it is done regularly. Use claw scissors or nail clippers, removing the tip of each nail up to the quick. Ask your veterinarian for a demonstration of this quick and painless technique.

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Cat Behavior Series: The Shy Cat

Why Are Cats Shy?

Cats are creatures of comfort and of the status quo. They do not respond well to changes in their environment. Their usual reaction to an unwelcome change will be to distance themselves. They may retreat to a hiding place or, if pushed, they may react aggressively. For a cat, hiding is a normal response to a new or frightening situation. Some cats are shy and fearful because of an illness. If this is new behavior, have her checked by a veterinarian. There are cats that respond to a new person in the household, be it an adult or baby, by running and hiding. Introducing a new dog or new cat to your household might elicit the same response. If yours is an outside cat, she may have been startled by a stranger or an animal, or she may have lost a good fight.

These experiences may result in a fearfulness that will convert her to a shy-acting inside cat. A sudden loud noise like thunder, a firecracker, or an engine backfire might send your cat under the bed for months. A phobic shyness indicates that proper socialization did not take place when your cat was an unweaned kitten. Proper socialization occurs when a very young kitten is handled and cuddled by all kinds of people, sniffed and touched by dogs and cats, and exposed to all kinds of noise out there in the world. Things are not as frightening if they have been experienced in the comfort and security of one who loves you.

Some cats don't have enough human contact as kittens -- they're comfortable with other cats, but they're afraid of people. The most sensitive point in kitten development is at two to seven weeks. The cat should receive gentle handling at that point. But the lessons remain important up to three months of age -- the kitten should have many positive experiences with people, other animals, being held and carried, riding in the car, going to the veterinarian, and so on. The idea is to create an outgoing cat. If a cat is afraid of people -- maybe guests, maybe a spouse -- you can slowly recondition it to accept them.

There are a few methods. First of all, understand that visitors can be frightening to a cat right off the bat -- the doorbell is loud, the conversation when people first enter the home is usually boisterous. The cat will typically bolt quickly. Enlist the help of a friend to try to coax the cat out of its anxiety. The cat shouldn't know the friend well. Females are preferable because of their higher voices -- in the cat world, a low voice is threatening. The friend should enter your home and sit down as soon as possible -- on the floor would be best. Many really shy cats will only come up if you're in a prone position, looking up at people is very intimidating to a cat. Don't stare at the cat -- stares are threatening. When the cat is in view, toss a treat in that direction, eventually drawing the cat closer as you drop the treats nearer. Or you can use toys to draw the cat out -- toys that allow the cat to keep space between itself and the visitor are best -- a pole with a dangling toy on the end of it, for instance. Slowly the cat learns to associate your guest with positive things.

Another method uses a cat carrier. When you invite people over, place the cat in a large, comfortable carrier, partially cover it, and keep it in the room with you. This allows the cat to become familiar with hearing other voices and loud noise in the home even as he remains hidden, if he wants, and protected. Eventually, let the visitors talk to the cat in the carrier -- the visitor can try to establish contact, or feed the cat some treats. Don't take the cat out of the carrier yet, though. Let contact happen through the bars. After you've tried that a few times and the cat remains calm, try taking the cat out of the carrier in the presence of the visitor. The visitor should not try to touch the cat -- you should hold it. Eventually the cat should learn that visitors are harmless, at which point touching will be possible and the cat won't bolt the moment someone enters the home. It's a slow process. Sometimes pharmaceuticals can help, and you should discuss this option with your veterinarian. The key is patience.

The Snug Retreat

If you are working with an already shy cat or bringing home a new shy cat, a snug-retreat can be a very useful tool. Put the shy cat in the snug retreat during its initial introduction to the home, so that the cat can become familiar with the sights, smells, and sounds of the home from a safe vantage point. Use the snug retreat when company is visiting or at other stressful high activity times when the cat needs a secure location.

A snug retreat is a large enough enclosed space -- usually a medium-sized dog crate -- which can house a cat bed, litter box, and water bowl. This space is used for several hours each day to allow the cat to relax in a stress free environment. When the cat is not in the retreat the door is kept closed so that no other cat has access to the litter box inside.

Many cats look forward to sleeping in a snug retreat and will run to their bed at night. Some cats prefer to have their snug retreat covered with a blanket or the like to make it seem more "cave like"; others prefer to have the visibility of open sides.

A cat will be happier to use their snug retreat if it is also used as a place where they can get cat treats, or that is lightly scented with catnip.

Tips for Socializing a Shy Cat
  • Play a radio for several hours each day to acclimatize the cats to a wide variety of the sounds.
  • Make eye contact.
  • Blink slowly and often to indicate you are not aggressive.
  • Keep a low profile. Spend time with the cat while laying down, or under covers.
  • Talk in a soft, soothing voice.
  • Move slowly and predictably.
  • Introduce feather wands and fleece padded sticks for the cat's inspection.
  • Softly touch the sides of the cat's face with the wands.
  • Slide your hand down the wand gradually until you can stroke the cat's cheek or chin.
  • Be patient.
  • Make sure that all canned food, treats, catnip, etc. is directly related to the cat being social with people, and is an obvious reinforcement for desired behaviors.
  • Keep the basics in the cat's life as predictable as possible: litterbox location, feeding time, etc.
  • Try pheromone products such as Feliway (TM).
  • Consider using a vet who makes house calls and an in-home pet sitter.
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In From the Wild -- from Feral to Pet

The man said, "Don't you realize there are miles and miles of beach and hundreds of starfish? You can't possibly make a difference! After listening politely, the boy bent down, picked up another starfish, and threw it into the surf. Then, smiling at the man, he said, "I made a difference for that one."

"We make a Difference... if We Choose!"

Ferals are the product of human irresponsibility. Unneutered domestic cats are allowed to roam freely or are disposable commodities dumped when they become inconvenient. These unneutered domestics produce offspring who have little or no direct contact with humans -- these are ferals.

Feral cats deserve our compassion and protection. Most importantly, feral cats have the right to be free from cruelty and abuse.

Most adult feral cats are not able to be socialized to the point where they can be adopted as household pets. Feral kittens, on the other hand, can often be tamed if captured young enough. Considering the short life span and inherent dangers in the life of a feral cat, those kittens which can be tamed and adopted by humans are indeed lucky.

The process of taming kittens can take from 2-6 weeks, depending on their age and state of wildness. Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. This requires a major commitment on the part of foster homes that spend many hours working with kittens before they reach a stage where they are adoptable.

PAWS utilizes a trap-neuter-release approach with adult feral cats who have a committed caregiver. Working with caregivers, PAWS volunteers trap nursing mothers and litters, bringing them into trained foster homes. As soon as kittens are of weaning age (4-6 weeks), the adults are sterilized and returned to their colonies. Kittens are separated into smaller groups to allow for more human contact and socialization.

Feral kitten tamers expose kittens to human contact and household experiences. Kittens observe regular household activities: vacuuming, dishwashers, telephones and the like, from the safety of taming cages. Physical handling and contact is increased daily until the kittens readily accept human touch and seek out the company of people.

PAWS adoption counselors work with prospective families to educate them about the individual personalities of reformed feral kittens, spending time on the need for a clearly defined socialization and introduction period in the new home and the importance of having the kitten be an indoor-only pet, since to some degree all former feral kittens retain some vestiges of their wild life and they may be easily startled or "spooked" when exposed to new stimuli.

Since 1998 PAWS has trapped/neutered/released 491 adult feral cats and rehabilitated and placed more than 175 feral kittens in adoptive homes.

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Read more:

Lost and Found Tips

Cats and Wildlife Don't Mix (pdf version)

Protect Your Cat, Protect The Environment (pdf version)

Cat Enclosures

Introducing Cats and Kittens to a New Home (pdf version)

Multi-Cat Households (pdf version)